Quigley the Corgi Free Sewing Pattern and Tutorial

Quigley the Corgi free sewing pattern comes just in time for making the perfect Valentine’s Day gift! Nothing says “I love you” like a handmade corgi you can squeeze!

Quigley the Corgi is based on an actual corgi I see regularly at the park. His owner knows I am obsessed with him and stops to let me pet him whenever we pass each other.

Here’s Quigley riding in a basket cart. His enormously fat feet aren’t visible, which is unfortunate, because they are his most endearing feature!

The Quigley the Corgi made for this tutorial was sewn with organic cotton and hemp fleece that I hand-dyed, but poly fleece will work as well. If you’re interested in trying this project with organic fabric but aren’t up for dyeing, I’ve dyed some extra fabric for making Quigley and listed it in my Etsy shop.

***Update 1/11/18 4:24 pm:  I’ve received some requests for already made corgis and have created a listing for them in my Etsy shop.

To make Quigley, you’ll need:

• •  Tan fleece (I’m using hand-dyed organic cotton and hemp fleece for which I have kits here) You’ll need approximately 1/3 yard tan (see cutting layout below for closer approximations)
  • Natural fleece — You’ll need approximately 1/3 yard
  • Red fleece — at least 8.5″ by 4.5″
  • Black embroidery floss/yarn OR Black felt for nose and eyes  (I’m using organic cotton yarn)
  • Stuffing (I’m using organic carded wool from a local farm, but I also like this organic roving*. You can also use fiber stuffing, like this one made from recycled plastic bottles*)
  • Matching all-purpose thread (I carry organic thread in my Etsy shop)
  • Marking tool (like this disappearing pen* or this water soluble pen*)
  • Scissors
  • Pins or clips*
  • Tool for turning and stuffing (like these hemostat clamps*)
  • Doll Needle (optional)

If you use natural fleece, I recommend a 90/14 ball point needle. And if you decide to go with organic cotton thread, I recommend making your final stitch a stretch stitch (baste first when sewing curves, as a stretch stitch is fairly permanent).

Links with an asterisk (*) are affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of them, I get a small percentage of the sale with no extra cost to you.

Printing the Pattern

Get the Pattern
Print at 100% (see a tutorial on printing and assembling patterns here).

Tracing the Pattern

Cut out paper pattern. I find it easier to trace the stitch line for small pieces, so I’m using the arm, leg, ear, and heart pattern pieces with only the seam allowance at the very end.

Line up arrows with grainline/nap direction of fabric. Trace all pieces (except the arms) and transfer all markings.

Sewing the Arms and Legs

For the arms, stitch an 11 in x 4 in piece of tan fleece to an 11 in x 2 in piece of white fleece, RIGHT sides together, along the longest edge. Finger press seam allowance open, fold widthwise with RIGHT sides together. Trace pattern piece and stitch arms. Cut out arms and turn. Run your hemostat clamps around the seams inside to help them fully open, and stuff about 2/3 of the way up.

With right sides together, stitch around legs. Cut out and turn right side out. Stuff 2/3 full.

Sewing the Body

Cut out body pieces.

Pin pieces 1 and 2, RIGHT sides together. Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance. If you are new to sewing curves, baste stitch and make sure you don’t have any puckering before sewing the final stitch. See below for a video tutorial on sewing curves.

Clip curves.  Repeat for the other side.

For the corgi butt, you may find it easier to pin and sew one cheek at a time. If needed, baste or hand-stitch before making your final stitch.

Sewing the Ears

With right sides of fabric together, stitch around ears. If you are using floppy fabric, like natural fiber fleece, I recommend placing a third layer of woven fabric (I used a scrap piece of hemp muslin) underneath the two fleece fabric layers to help the ears stand up. Cut out ears, clip curves, and turn right side out. Run your hemostat clamps around the seams. Press if needed.

Baste stitch ears 1/8″ from bottom edge. Fold inner edge of ears over at indicated marking. Baste stitch again across the bottom to hold ears in folded position.

Attaching Parts to the Body

Stitch body pieces RIGHT sides together around U shape, leaving the openings for ears and arms.

Place the ears and arms in position. Make sure the insides of the ears are touching the body side with the face, and make sure the folded edges of ears are facing the center.  Stitch ears and arms in place (I find that the ears stand up better if you don’t trim the seam allowance around the ears).

Position legs with the longer side of leg touching the outer seam on body. Stitch in place, taking care not to stitch beyond the width of the leg (otherwise your hole for turning will be narrow).

Hand baste the seam allowances of the opening on the bottom of the body. Clip corners.

Make sure you have your eye and nose positions marked on the right side of the fabric. At this point, you can make the eyes and nose, or you can wait until after stuffing.  I like to wait until then end so I can needle sculpt the eyes.

There are a number of options for the eyes and nose:

• You can make them with felt and machine or hand-stitch them 1/8″ from edge, like I did in the Doodles the Deer tutorial.
• You can use a satin stitch for the nose and make embroidered knot eyes with embroidery floss or yarn (here’s a video tutorial on embroidering eyes with a French or colonial knot).
• You can use glass eyes (I prefer to use glass beads, which I have a tutorial for here.)
• You can use a plastic safety nose and eyes. Note that safety eyes/noses are not intended for small children, and I do not recommend using them with natural-fiber fabrics, like the organic fleece I used for this tutorial. (Safety eyes typically require a small amount of fusible stabilizer or Fray Check to prevent holes in stretch fabrics.)

Flip the body right side out. Run your hemostat clamps or chopstick along the inside seams. Stuff the body (I’m using carded, organic wool from humanely raised sheep, but you can use your stuffing of choice). Quigley can hold a lot of stuffing. Take extra care to stuff the corners of his bottom and the area around the opening.

Close with a ladder stitch (here’s a video tutorial on how to ladder stitch).

If you haven’t already, make the eyes and nose (and mouth, if desired). If you’d like to needle sculpt your eyes, here’s a video tutorial.

Making the Heart

With RIGHT sides together, stitch around heart, leaving indicated opening. trim seam allowance to 3/16″ and clip curves and corner. Turn, stuff, and close with ladder stitch.

Pin the heart to one arm and ladder stitch arm to paw. Repeat for other side. (Here’s a video on attaching small parts with a ladder stitch.)

You’re finished! I’d love to see your Quigley the Corgi! You can join my facebook group for people sewing with Fluffmonger patterns or share your photos on social media with #fluffmongerpatterns.

Selling Items Made with this Pattern or Creating Derivative Works

This pattern may be used to create handmade toys to sell, but items may not be mass-produced. Please give credit to Fluffmonger with “pattern by Fluffmonger” and a link to my website, www.fluffmonger.com on your tags and listings.

If you modify the pattern or use certain pieces to create another pattern, still credit Fluffmonger, as these are considered derivative works.

This design is protected by federal copyright law (© 2018) and may not be reproduced in any form. Reproduction of this design, either in part or whole, or distribution of this pattern electronically or by hard copy is strictly prohibited.

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